Thursday, February 10, 2011

A Near Death in Venice

For over a decade I have survived gloomy February by booking a flight to Venice. My internal clock is nagging me to go but such a trip is economically impossible this year.
I have always avoided the madness of Carnevale preferring to arrive the day after when rates go down and the city is hungover. Wet confetti lies in worn cobblestone cracks bleeding bright colors into the canals and one can have a Campo or even Piazza San Marco to oneself.
I was a carefree young fool when I first laid eyes on this surreal city, it was love at first sight despite our vast differences in age. I have since grown older, more worse for wear but she remains hauntingly beautiful.
I always try to dress and act with dignity when traveling, if you show a little respect you will be rewarded tenfold, better tables, invitations to private homes and occasionally, free drinks. This rule holds true for Venice more than any other major city as you will shine like a beacon amidst the fanny pack, sneaker wearing cruise ship crowd. I am not a snob, I am merely stating the facts.
While visiting Venice for the sixth time I had the misfortune to catch one of those airplane colds, I suffered with it for two days before seeking help from the local Farmacia, apparently codeine is an over the counter drug in Italy, at least it was then. The entire visit passed like a dream that I never wanted to wake from. Naturally one does not need drugs in Venice, her grandeur is intoxicating enough but I do recommend that you catch a cold at least once while visiting.
The last time I visited Harry's Bar it was filled with Americans all shouting into their cell phones to the folks back home, "Guess where I am. I'm at Harry's Bar and I am drinking a Bellini!" It was awful, they also shot daggers at our table because we were smoking, I have not been back since.
My first experience at Harry's was quite different, my companions were beautiful and handsome, everyone smoked, yes we enjoyed the ubiquitous Bellini but quickly moved on to Prosecco. The crowd was a congenial mix of travelers and a few actual Venetians, life was good.
I was wearing my new suit purchased in Florence the week before.
Sufficiently soused we planned to return to our respective hotels when we were approached by Venetians who convinced us the night was young. Venice is not known for it's nightlife but we were escorted to one of the three places I know of that stay open late.
We were treated to yet more bottles of Prosecco which is why my new suit and I needed fresh air. I excused myself from the table and exited a back door which opened on to a small dark canal.
I thought for a moment I may be sick so I leaned forward over the canal and braced myself with one hand to a gondola pole which promptly cracked in half sending me head first into the canal. I was completely underwater. It was pitch black. I imagined for a moment that this would be a wonderful way to die but I was not ready yet. Upon surfacing, the only sound I heard was of the splash still echoing off the walls that surrounded this murky dark canal. Treading water, I collected my thoughts and realized I would have to swim a yard to some slimy moss covered steps which I pulled myself up on to. No longer sick, in fact completely shocked into sobriety I contemplated my situation as I dripped. There was nothing to be done but return to my playmates who did not bat an eye concerning the state of my being.
We all met the next evening for dinner but my suit never hung quite right ever again.
Katherine Hepburn was required to fall into a canal while filming Summertime and suffered from a permanent eye infection for the rest of her life, she should have fallen in with 80 proof blood, she would have been fine.
There is nothing I can write about Venice that has not already been said far more eloquently than I ever could. This drawing is my valentine to a city I love. I hope you all get a chance to experience her glory, that is my valentine to you. X David

71 comments:

Luz said...

maravilloso post!

Suzy said...

I put a link to this post on Twitter because:

A. It was so evocative
B. The illustration was phenomenal
C. You refuse to be on Twitter

Also left a comment for the photographer living in Paris, if I go in the Spring I will contact her.

Lynne Rutter said...

venice is one of my favorite cities. such a good idea to be there every year. very sorry about your suit.

normadesmond said...

we've almost had the exact same experience!

as a child, i fell into a swamp at the end of my street and walked home, creature from the black lagoon style, while the neighbors laughed at me.

i've also been to venice.

isn't that amazing?

John McGreivey said...

One time I didn't fall into a canal in Leningrad. And another time, I didn't fall into a canal in Amsterdam. And many times, I have not fallen into the canal in Waterford.

I did once lose my hat in a ditch.

Bill said...

Wow. You paint underwear very well.

(Since the furthest I've been out of the United States is Canada, I had nothing intelligent to say or anything interesting that I've fallen into. Very interesting reading, though!)

Dash said...

Wonderful post David, I was hanging on your every word, the best piece of writing I have read for some time and a beautiful Valentine to the city you love.

You really should consider (if you haven't already) publishing a book of your illustrations and stories, I sincerely hope there is a publisher out there who has seen your blog and spotted your huge potential.

Missing you
Dash
XXX

cip said...

oh, what a marvellous illustration!

K Pugliano said...

I agree with Dash...this should be a book! :)

I can't say I have ever fallen into a canal, But I have dipped a toe or two into reflecting pools.
They are much safer, btw. ;)

Miss you-hope to see you soon.

Happy Valentine's Day!
XOXO

A Gift Wrapped Life said...

I was thinking exactly the same before I saw these comments, there is a very entertaining book in you (possibly several) and the illustrations to go with it......perfect.

Alison Cross said...

I love Venice and have always wanted to go at Carnivale, but cannot afford it. Your reminiscences are quite wonderful, David - you write with an artist's eye.

Well, obviously, you write with your HANDS, but you know what I mean....

Ali x

joelle said...

The first and only time I went to Venice was right after my husband's death. He was 46. A good friend took me there around New year's to cheer me up. I went with all the clichés about Venice in my head and the expectation that it would be "Death in Venice" and Mahler's fifth.
It rained every day and the Plazza San Marco bathed in two feet of water. Tourists poked their umbrella spikes in our faces but not Venitians. The tourists had not learned the etiquette about how one holds an umbrella when it rains in Venice, slanted toward the walls.
It was pure magic. You describe it so well. We avoided the most travelled routes to the sites and waded through the streets and up and down the bridges with glee. We came back to our hotel every night drenched, worn out and happy.
Thank you for this post and beautiful illustration. They bring back wonderful memories and the urge me to return.

Al said...

This is a great post and a classic story. I've never had the chance to visit Venice, but it's at the top of the list of cities I'd love to see. And maybe it will happen once the kids have graduated from college.

Joanne said...

Brilliantly written, I really enjoy your writing... I love Venice also I have been 4 times over the years, with different lovers and friends and it always gives me different rewards and memories. Keep them coming David!

Mari said...

Love the illustration and this post (how couldn't I?).
Have been home for Christmas and enjoyed every single view of Venice.
(We had snow and rain but also clear sky with view of the mountains)

Glad you are still alive after your bath in the Canal!

the fly in the web said...

My father took me there when I was a teenager, on the way back to London from Trieste.
It was November...foggy and damp...and absolutely wonderful.
I'm sorry you missed this year.

Jeanne-Aelia Desparmet-Hart said...

Only you David. Humorously written and of course magnificently illustrated. And the suit...well a suit, even from Florence, is just a suit. At least you are still here and happy to entertain us with your tales. Thank heaven you swam out safely and went on to blog for our benefit. Bravo for the composure in Venice by the way. A bientot.

Ms. Moon said...

Dang! That was wonderful! From illustration to finish. Thanks for sharing that with us. I like tucking it into my pocket.

Karen Martin Sampson said...

David, this was most amusing and informative and makes me wish that I had at least once in my life been to Venice! (Actually I have wished it many times but the wish fairy seems to be otherwise occupied). I was an illustrator for about 35 years, in Cleveland, LA, Toronto, and Rochester, NY. It disciplined me enough to make me feel confidant about turning to so-called "fine art" full time in my 50's (especially after my gig teaching Illustration at the Rochester Institute of Technology gave out due to budget cuts). I make hardly any money but I'm happy not dealing with the deadlines and effusive art director types any more. Love your style and look forward to more great posts.

Beth - In My World... said...

S'Wonderful...S'Marvelous...love it! My first gasp at your artwork turned into Eeeewwww at the thought of you headfirst in the canal. I have Venice on my bucket list and when I am notorious after achieving my first Pulitzer, I shall go right after spending a month in Paris.

No fanny-pack-cell-phone-yelling-Americans allowed. I will be the epitome of chic...and you shall come, too. We shall prevent one another from falling into canals. Friends don't let friends swim in pools of cess.

Happy Valentines Day to you, my friend,
~Moi

David Toms said...

Oh David, you have the best stories! Falling into a canal in Venice is so full of savoir faire!

A Thousand Clapping Hands said...

This is a post that I would like to read again and again. Venice has only been a dream to me, but like you I want to go after Carnivale. I picture it with lost masks, gloves, sequins. You are the second person I know who has fallen in the canal. I felt so bad about your suit. Wonderful illustration, David.
Catherine

Lady C said...

Oh darling...if only I had the disposable income to send you this year to Venecia. xo

a Broad said...

What a great story !
I have yet to see Venice. We were booked for a nice long visit in Italy for Oct 2001 and things happened that made flying to Europe impossible.
I still dream of taking that trip ..
besitos ~ C

Meg said...

I really like your magic illustrationS!you're an amazing artisT,I follow you!
It will be a pleasure to have u between my followers!
http://themissidea.blogspot.com/

Pam Tucker said...

Another beautiful illustration to accompany such a fantastic story! SO glad you survived your tumble into the canal! I've never been to Venice but loved reading about it here...

Sarcastic Bastard said...

A belated Happy Valentine's Day, David! So glad you're back.

Venice sounds lovely. Thank you for sharing your tale.

My favorite place on Earth is Savannah, Georgia. I feel totally at home there. I'd live there in a heartbeat if I could afford to.

Love,

SB

A BRIT GREEK said...

Awesome post and lovely illustration (esp the colours)!

You always have the best story to tell...

Next time you catch a cold, stick a hair dryer up your nose and inhale on the warm (not too hot!) air - it's supposed to kill off the icky germs!

Marcela Gmd said...

Buen post!!!! Te sigo desde España. Pásate a visitarme a fashionadictas. Besos Marcela Ah!!! me encanta el arte y la moda....

Marcela Gmd said...

Buen post!!!! Te sigo desde España. Pásate a visitarme a fashionadictas. Besos Marcela Ah!!! me encanta el arte y la moda....

Johanna Urban said...

Oh! I would love to see venice one day!! Beautiful illustration and thanks for sharing this post!!


have a wodnerful day!
xx

johanna, sweden
ART

Showmethelook said...

¿Te gusta la moda? Tenemos unas gafas especiales, una particular forma de ver las cosas. Unos son del año del Mono, otros de la Cabra. Nosotros (bloggermente hablando) somos del fatídico año del leopardo. Del triste año en el que el leopardo se convirtió en un MUST.
Síguenos y entérate de los eventos, las novedades musicales y comparte nuestra peculiar forma de ver la moda.

http://www.showmethemust.com/

TattooedZebra said...

hey, thank you for reading my blog! Your illustrations are amazing! :)
greets Joy

Catherine Stine said...

Hi David
Great post, as usual. I just awarded you one of my On Target blog awards! Check it out. Catherine
http://catherinestine.blogspot.com/2011/02/more-blog-awards-on-target-pay-it.html

Johanna Urban said...

Haha! Yes I will, thank you :)

take care
//johanna

momamama said...

Your writing is as brilliant as your painting,
happiness to you my valentine.
Love,
Sharin

SOFIA said...

AMAZING BLOG!

Showmethelook said...

¿Te gusta la moda? Tenemos unas gafas especiales, una particular forma de ver las cosas. Unos son del año del Mono, otros de la Cabra. Nosotros (bloggermente hablando) somos del fatídico año del leopardo. Del triste año en el que el leopardo se convirtió en un MUST.
Síguenos y entérate de los eventos, las novedades musicales y comparte nuestra peculiar forma de ver la moda.

http://www.showmethemust.com/

Te seguimos :)

Lola Sharp said...

What a lovely homage to a city you adore.

I think you should add 'writer' to your list of talents.

mice_aliling said...

I've only had a five minute glimpse of Venezia on my way to Milano. It was waiting time in between train rides so I strolled with my best friend and went beyond the stores that sells Murano rings and and calendars with the the sunflowers of Toscana on the covers. Venice did not quite catch my breath the way it did for you.

Of course, I am being unfair as it was a measly couple of minutes for me to judge a place that is literally a lover to a lot of people. All the more reason for me to go back to Italia and see if things get better between Venezia and me.

Enjoy.

V. said...

oh thanks for following me, it's absolutely an honour. I like your blog, your works are fantastic, amazing, great...I adore everything.
thank you very much, thanks to give me the possibility to discover your blog.
v

http://v4visionarity.blogspot.com

Kent Jeffree said...

omfg just fallin in love with your blog!

jeffree
http://www.dudes-and-chicks.com/

brillenmode said...

Nice blog!

Square With Flair™ said...

What a charming post.

You are right, there is a unique and melancholy atmosphere, quite beautiful, after a wonderful party, event, or celebration, and you have evoked so much in your mention of the confetti between the cracks. The atmosphere you have described is so much of this moment in time. How typical that people feel it is necessary to describe their position and activity by cell phone, rather than merely enjoying the special moment for what it is.

You are correct about maintaining a bit of decorum in dress. It is a distraction to visit a splendid theater, restaurant, or historic site with people dressed as though they’re cleaning out the garage. It has nothing to do with money or status, merely of respect and maintaining some dignity.

I like your illustration. I cannot think of any decorative object that conveys the Venetian sense of exoticism, fantasy, and festivity than a blackamoor. And they always remind me of Diana Vreeland’s apartment.

I haven’t been to Venice in 35 years, but after reading your post, I long to have a coffee at a café on St. Mark’s Square and attend a concert in an atmospheric old church.

le journal de prada said...

love oyur ilustrations are very cool!
i follow u and i'd happy if u follow me also
xxxx
http://lejournaldeprada.blogspot.com
bye

The Fashion Commentator said...

Let me know when you will come to Florence to buy a new dress, I should help you to find another one for those kind of Venetian emergency! ;)Hope you enjoyed Italy! I really like your drawings! Following you!

Giulia Maniscalco said...

Omg your blog is amazing !

stencil helen said...

'There is nothing I can write about Venice that has not already been said far more eloquently than I ever could'
No, that's not true David nor would it be as funny. I loved this tale.

SKIZO said...

Wonderful
work
good creations

Jeanette said...

You've written a perfect vision of Venice and its culture.

Pity about your dip in the canal, better your suit ruined than your life.

Young at Heart said...

I was thinking of that Katherine H episode while reading because I was talking about the film this very day!! Have only been once to Venice, relitively recently in my long life and was blown away that I'd gotten to be so old without visiting before.........I definately need to leave town you made a good call....

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SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE

There's much in the world that you can't explain.
It's revealed for you to remember
by the whispering voice of a distant train
or a midnight rain in november.

Horizon within! You can always find
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Is Nature naught but extension.

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by fear and longing you roam
that deep Southeast in your soul hidden
...on your random journey back home.

Single Swingle

---

Casualidad sopla la sangre
de alguno señor desconocido
durante los pocos restantes
momentos del resplandor de faroles

que se vislumbran tras el follaje
flameando de las obsesiónes
igual efimero como gotas
del cinzano de la soledad –

En aquel tiempo me levanta
dentro uno incidente avejentado
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chica, nadie conoce que tus grisos
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LE FRUIT DU CIEL

Un orage nocturne illmuna maintenant l'Amazonie, franchis les Andes, envoya des jeux de cartes gigantesques et frappantes en bas à la Pampa –

Puis: petit déjeuner à melon; café fumant !

À la bague du cigare tu lis, étonné: GÉOGRAPHIE.

Poétudes

---

Das Leben dergleichen Halbfaßung
der Welt wahr immer nicht wahr,
nicht wahr? Die fristlos Entlaßung
am Ende wird kaum wunderbar.

So laßen uns Menschlingen viele
besonders besonnene zum
Zeitweilegem Zeiten als Ziele
des Lebens halbfaßen darum.

Fremde Gedichte


---

We need a new analysis of probability. My hypothesis is that disorder is as constant as energy, since increasing material disorder, entropy, is counterbalanced by increasing structural regularity, symmetry. I tell you the Law of Entropy and the Law of Symmetry, ruling approximatively equal universal validity derive through bifurcation of the still more basic Law of Probability, that is, math, and rather simple math at that. Can you dig this?

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GAMMABLIXT


---

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Holmstock


====
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A Daft Scots Lass said...

Incredibly inspiring post.

Kent Jeffree said...

i loooove your blog! so nice

xoxo

Jeffree

http://www.dudes-and-chicks.com/

LEN▲ said...

love love love your blog!

peace and love, lena.

Karena said...

David a wonderful story, love your account and only I wish you could be there this year!

I am wishing I were in Paris!

xoxo
Karena
Art by Karena

Come and enter my fine art giveaway!

SANDRA AZWAN said...

Hello David, how's life?

Ruby Tuesday said...

Hey David another wonderful post, I agree with Dash you should look into publishing a book your illustrations are just beautiful .. a but late but Happy Valentines xx

Beth - In My World... said...

Okay, my friend, you seem to have gone MIA on us again...send word so I know you aren't buried in an Adirondack Avalanche! WE MISS YOU!

Jenny D said...

Yes... your Venetian swimming experience made me click the FOLLOW button! You know I want to now.... Love your art and your commentary Davide.

Jenny D said...

Love the part about the cell phones in Harry's and the Summertime eye infection. Very witty!

KARNOSKI said...

I love Veniceeee(:
follow me, I'll follow you back!
http://nocrisnoparty.blogspot.com/

also with bloglovin
http://www.bloglovin.com/en/blog/2232748/no-cris-no-party

with love, cris

Nora * said...

Stunning illustration, so evocative!



www.norascrapbook.blogspot.com/

24 Corners said...

Maybe you went to Venice after all...let's hope so, that way you'll have another fabulous story to tell us when you get back (selfish I know...sorry)!
xo J~

Jane and Lance Hattatt said...

Hello:
Both your drawings and your description of Venice are magical. It is, indeed, the most wonderful of cities and, away from St. Mark's and the Rialto, it is still possible to be solitary and at one with the architecture and priceless paintings of centuries ago. We love it and visit often as there is a direct, overnight train from Budapest daily.
And you are so right, Venice [and probably all major cities] deserves our taking time and trouble over appearances.
Thank you so much for becoming a Follower of our very new blog. We are more than happy to reciprocate and will look forward to your future posts.

Carla said...

Hi David you make me want to pack my bags for Venice.. I too love Venice out of season but your drawing is more beautiful than any photo I could take of her. Hope you are well. Carla xx

Riviera Brides said...

Head over heels in love with this post, Venice :) + your blog. New follower here from the French Riviera, do hope you're gonna follow back. All the best, talk soon
www.rivierabrides.com

ParisBreakfasts said...

Just back from Venice and I kept wondering the whole time at Kate Hepburn...
Especially since I bought a water-proof map before leaving and then wondered whatever for?

Do read Donna Leon's Venice mysteries for a taste of the REAL place, not the invasion...
Merci indeed
Carolg

are you dressing up or dressing down said...

amazing talent, love the style of your illustrations.

Helen, X
areyoudressingupordressingdown.blogspot.com

Daria Hlazatova said...

i love your illustrations, glad i have come across your blog. also would love to visit Venice

Hot Pink Combat Boots said...

Where did you go? Come back